Phở Bắc Hà in Chí Linh. Cheaper than in downtown. Employees live upstairs. Owner is from Nam Định, famous for its phở, but Sài Gòn phở is the best, most people would agree. Even here, the version is Saigon influenced. Phở's birthplace is Hanoi, but I've had my worst bowls there. Decades of austere Communism ruined their taste buds. During my first trip to Hanoi in 1995, just about every dish was awful.