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You're not going to find scrapple gravy on too many menus, but this is Sulimays in Philadelphia's Fishtown. My pastrami and ham sandwich was excellent but not quite filling. The mustard had beer in it, the owner said, so I asked, "Which beer?"

"Kensingzer," she answered.

We talked about which beer or liquor might be best for mustard, and decided on a smokey whiskey.

Fishtown is becoming gentrified, but still very much working class. Half a mile from Sulimays, a homeless encampment sprung up this week, but the city immediately announced it would clear it out.



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