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Arra Restaurant. I paid just $6 for spinach, beef and potato, and a bottle of water. The old lady gave me more bread, but I only took two slices. "Basta," I said. There was no menu, but it was easy enough to understand that "spinaq" and "papate" were available, and I knew enough to ask for "viçi." Pronounced vee chee, it's Albanian for beef. As for drinks, she showed me a bottle of raki and one of water. A little glass of raki would have cost me 60 cents, maybe. I passed.


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