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A bricklayer, he worked in Italy for six months, near Milan. On this rainy day, he was downing raki at this cafe. He rolled me a cigarette, but I said I didn't smoke.

The cafe owner is a high school math teacher. Speaking some English, his son told me the village was mostly Muslim, but many of them drank alcohol. When there's a gathering at his house, they'd drink raki and beer, and sometimes cognac.

According to the 2011 census, Levan had 8,159 people. It cost me just 50 cents to take a mini bus here from Fier.


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