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Tiny cafe by bus depot and disused train station. I had two Turkish coffees here. The lady had no coffee machine, so there were no cappucinos or macchiatos. She spoke no English or Italian, so I communicated with her son in Italian. He had worked as a manual laborer in Perugia, Ancona and Brescia. When I asked him why he had returned to Albania, he said, "Il mio padre. La mia madre."

When I walked in, the lady was having her breakfast of bread and a piece of cheese.


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