After nearly three months in Tirana, I finally found a cafe/bar with real character. The rest are too bland, kitschy or trendy.
Although I was clearly a foreigner who couldn't understand Albanian, this old man started to talk to me. First, it was just a few sentences, but as he got up to leave, he went on about something in a friendly, confidential way, as if I was just another old guy at this joint. An old waiter couldn't help but laugh at this senility. I grinned.
I had two macchiatos, a large bottle of Kaon beer, four excellent cevapi and a soft roll of bread (meant for old or fake teeth), and everything cost me just $3.44.