Last dinner in Pakse, a paté, cheese and Beerlao feast at Sésé for 225,000 kips [$12.07]. Compared to a 10,000 kip [54 cent] bánh mì, which I sometimes had for dinner here, this was very extravagant, but hell, I was about to leave. In Laos for six years, the owner of Sésé has not been back to France, and does not miss it. He has a lovely baby girl with his Lao wife. Dressed like a princess and with her face smeared with cream from a cake, she came to my table to say hello.