Arriving in Kracheh, I had not eaten in over 23 hours. After checking into Heng Heng 2, I went to the market for some amazingly good grilled chicken on a stick. When you're that hungry, a cracker will blow your mind. Returning to my $10-a-night room, I bought this cluster of fermented pork, nem chua, for $1.22.

In the background is the Mekong, with its irrawaddy dolphins.